LEARNING TIME!
CAT ADOPTION GUIDE
Our how-to guide to ensure a smooth transition for your new best furry friend
Congratulations on your new friend!
Welcome to the Forever Friends Family of Adopters! We’re thrilled that you’ve decided to open your heart and home to a rescue kitty. Your choice not only brings joy to your life, but also saves theirs.
Many of our rescue felines have had a tough journey, often saved from dire situations in pounds or shelters. While they’ve spent time with us in foster care we’ve assessed their health and temperament as best we can, sometimes, there might be unexpected health or behavioural challenges once they settle into their new homes. If your cat starts displaying behaviours you don’t quite understand don’t hesitate reach out to us. The sooner you let us know, the sooner we can help find solutions.
It’s important to remember that some, but not all, rescue cats may have experienced neglect or mistreatment in the past, which could make them slow to trust humans again. However, with patience, love, and kindness, your bond with your new family member will undoubtedly flourish.
Settling in your new cat
Cats can be such creatures of habit sometimes that a new home can be quite stressful for them. You can help minimise this by initially keeping them in a small room of the house (their ‘Safe Place’), away from other pets or too much noise. The Safe Place can be any room that you can close off. It should contain a litter tray, food/water, a few cosy hiding places, a scratching post and toys. Show your cat the location of their litter tray straight away to help avoid accidents.
You will know when your feline is feeling more settled when they show an interest in leaving their room to explore their surroundings. For some this may only take hours, for others it can take days. They will let you know when they are ready.
Settling in your new cat
Cats can be such creatures of habit sometimes that a new home can be quite stressful for them. You can help minimise this by initially keeping them in a small room of the house (their ‘Safe Place’), away from other pets or too much noise. The Safe Place can be any room that you can close off. It should contain a litter tray, food/water, a few cosy hiding places, a scratching post and toys. Show your cat the location of their litter tray straight away to help avoid accidents.
You will know when your feline is feeling more settled when they show an interest in leaving their room to explore their surroundings. For some this may only take hours, for others it can take days. They will let you know when they are ready.
THE BASICS
Heres we have collected some important information on the basics of caring for your new best friend. If there anything that isn’t covered in this guide that you’d like support with, please do not hesitate to reach out. We are committed to supporting you and your new feline, and want to ensure your new pairing is a successful one.
Safe Environment
Do not let your new cat outside unsupervised for at least four weeks; six weeks is safer. Although your cat is microchipped, we encourage you to also place a cat-safe collar with a breakaway clip on them with your phone number. We recommend collar identification in addition to the microchip because if your feline strays and is trapped by a neighbour or ranger, in their fear and confusion your cat might be wrongly identified as a ‘feral’, and not successfully scanned for a microchip. Sadly under Victorian law, ‘feral’ cats can be killed in the pound the same day rather than being held for the statutory eight days.
For the ultimate in safety for your feline family member, consider investing in an outdoor cat enclosure, usually connected to a door or window of your house, or cat-proof your back yard. These protect your feline from neighbouring dog attacks, fighting with local cats and wandering onto the road. You can sometimes find second-hand cat enclosures online (Gumtree, Ebay, Marketplace) that aren’t too expensive. Your cat will love their own special outdoor house! You can also teach your cat to walk on a harness and lead. Ask us if you’d like some tips.
Introductions
Please limit the number of visitors in the first few days. We know everyone wants to meet your newest family member, but your cat needs time to settle and to bond with your family before being introduced to too many others. They may be exhausted from the stress of it all and be happy to lay down and sleep for a while, so please keep excitement to a minimum.
Introducing your new cat to your existing pets can be a delicate process, but with patience and gradual steps, it can lead to harmonious coexistence and wonderful friendships. You can find step by step guides for introducing your new friend to cats and dogs further down in this guide.
Litter
Cats are clean animals and their litter tray is very important to them. Using the right tray, litter and location will help avoid accidents. In multi-cat families, litter trays are a ‘resource’ and some cats will ‘guard’ them, so it’s generally recommended to have one litter tray per cat, plus a spare. Position them in easily-accessible areas, but not in major thoroughfares.
Feline likes:
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Feline Dislikes:
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If your cat has urinated outside the litter tray, clean it thoroughly with an enzyme-based cleaner, such as Urine Off, Biozet laundry powder or Animal Odour Eliminator. White Vinegar is also a good neutralising agent for accidents outside the litter tray. Avoid ammonia products, as these smell like urine to your cat. If they keep going back to that area, it may be because they can still smell urine. Try cleaning it again or buying a black light to look for remaining urine.
Litter
Cats are clean animals and their litter tray is very important to them. Using the right tray, litter and location will help avoid accidents. In multi-cat families, litter trays are a ‘resource’ and some cats will ‘guard’ them, so it’s generally recommended to have one litter tray per cat, plus a spare. Position them in easily-accessible areas, but not in major thoroughfares.
Feline likes:
- Fine textured, clumping and unscented litter, one to two inches deep
- Large trays with room to move – consider using under-bed plastic storage containers
- Clean trays, scooped once or twice daily
- Washed in mild detergent or hot water weekly – avoid citrus or pine
Feline Dislikes:
- Litter tray liners – their claws get stuck on the plastic
- Crystal litter – it’s coarse and very sharp on delicate paws
- Covered litter trays – they trap odours and your cat can’t see approaching ‘predators’
- Scented litter If your cat likes to really dig and tosses the litter outside the tray, you can contain their handiwork by putting the tray in a deeper cardboard box.
If your cat has urinated outside the litter tray, clean it thoroughly with an enzyme-based cleaner, such as Urine Off, Biozet laundry powder or Animal Odour Eliminator. Avoid ammonia products, as these smell like urine to your cat. If they keep going back to that area, it may be because they can still smell urine. Try cleaning it again or buying a black light to look for remaining urine.
POSTS
When outside, cats scratch on trees to keep their claws sharp, stretch out their long spines and leave their scent. When inside, you can meet this need with a tall, stable scratching post. It will also reduce the risk of them using your sofa or prized rug. Look for solid posts that don’t wobble. Many cats love sisal rope wrapped around the post, as they can sink their claws right into it. They also love height; posts with perches on them will double as a scratching post and a resting place. Place it where you and your cat hang out – if you hide it away, it’ll be less appealing. If pushed for space, you can even wrap sisal rope around a table leg.
FOOD
Initially try to stick to the same brand of food where possible to prevent any upset tummies (ask the Foster Carer what they have been feeding your feline), and steer away from table scraps as they can be very high in fat for our animals. When it comes to choosing a brand of food for your cat, while pet store and vet clinic brands are more expensive, they are of much better quality, so it is a good investment in your new family member’s health to avoid the supermarket brands. Please do not feed your cat dog food as this lacks an essential nutrient for cats. If you are feeding a kitten ensure the food is made for kittens. It is very important for animals to have structure in their life as it helps them feel confident and safe, so meal times are best kept to a schedule wherever possible, and each animal should ideally be fed in a separate area to prevent them feeling threatened for food.
PARASITE CONTROL
Your cat will have been wormed while in our care and your cat’s Case Manager or Foster Carer can advise when this was and the duration of coverage. Kittens should be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 weeks of age, then monthly until 6 months of age, then every 3 months for the rest of their life. It is best to purchase a worm tablet from a vet clinic as these are good quality and highly effective. Worm paste is also available. If at any stage you see an animal has worms in its faeces, then you should repeat a treatment a fortnight later, as this indicates a heavy worm infestation.
The easiest and most effective treatment to protect your home from fleas is a monthly ‘spot on’ type treatment. These can be purchased from pet stores or veterinary clinics. Flea treatments should be used on all animals in the household to be effective. Flea treatments can be safe to use from 6 weeks in age depending on the product. If you are unsure, check the product packaging, or ask a vet for advice.
Stitches
If your new female cat has been desexed in the last fortnight, she will still have her stitches in. Your cat’s Case Manager or Foster Carer can advise when her stitches are due to come out – usually within 10-14 days. Some stitches are dissolvable and will not require removal – please ask the Foster Carer who can advise which your new kitty has had. Most vets will normally remove the stitches for you at no cost, but we do recommend you visit one of our nominated vet clinics for this so they can give your cat the once-over at the same time, at no charge to you. Until the stitches are ready to be removed, please check the wound area daily for any swelling, discharge, redness or to see if they have tried to remove their own stitches. Please get in touch with your Case Manager if you have any concerns.
Keeping Kitty Content
Cats love to sleep, hunt, climb, hide and scratch. You can keep your kitty happy, and prevent behaviour you don’t want, by keeping them mentally and physically stimulated:
- Cat Kongs and wobblers for ‘hunting’ – you can even glue toilet rolls into a tissue box and put treats inside them
- Cat Towers or floating shelves on walls for climbing, scratching and additional ‘territory’; buy shelves that stick to windows using suction caps
- Laser lights for chasing
- Tunnels and cardboard boxes for hiding
- A container of cat grass for nibbling
- Wand toys are great especially for shy cats
- Occasional catnip, if they respond to it
- Toys – these can be store bought or as simple as a cardboard box – there are many online groups dedicated to enrichment that can provide ideas!
INTRODUCTIONS TO AN EXISTING CAT
Separate Spaces
Your resident cat might perceive the new arrival as an intruder in their territory. To ease this transition, set up distinct living areas for each cat with food, water, litter, and cozy hiding spots. This separation allows them to acclimate to their new surroundings without direct interaction. It’s also important to give this time to your new cat to settle in, as you don’t want to attempt an introduction with a reactive newcomer who isn’t feeling themselves. Tunnels, boxes and hiding spaces will allow your new furry friend to retreat and catch their bearings while they adjust.
Mealtime Training
During feeding times, position their food bowls on either side of a closed door that separates their spaces. As they enjoy their meals, they’ll associate each other’s presence with something positive—food! Gradually move the bowls closer together over time.
Even though your resident cat won’t be able to see the newcomer kitty, they are going to be aware of the fact that they are on the other side of the door. This is normal but by having the newcomer in the safe place, you’re letting your resident cat know that only a portion of their territory has been invaded and not the entire home.
Scent Swapping
Cats rely heavily on their sense of smell to assess their environment and other animals. Begin by allowing them to become acquainted with each other’s scent.
Place a clean sock on your hand and gently rub the newcomer along the face to collect some facial pheromones. Pheromones are scent chemicals that are released from a cat’s scent glands. The pheromones around the cat’s face (along the sides of the mouth, on the chin, cheeks and on forehead) are basically ‘friendly’ pheromones. Cats facially rub on objects in locations where they feel comfortable. So by using the sock, we’re going to create a simulated cat that contains lots of friendly pheromones. You can then place it in the other cats area. This exchange helps them get used to each other’s scent in a controlled way, reducing initial tension and anxiety.
Visual Contact
The next step involves opening the Safe Place door just a crack during the feeding sessions. Feed the cats within sight of each other but far enough apart so they don’t feel threatened. Do short sessions where you’re offering a tiny amount of food and then close the Safe Place’s door. It’s better to do several short sessions a day that end on a positive note rather than attempting one long session where someone’s tolerance is tested and a fight breaks out. If one cat routinely tries to bolt through the door, use a door stop to prevent the door from 6 fully opening. You can also place a hook-and-eye closure on the door temporarily.
If there’s any sign of aggression or fear during visual contact, introduce a baby gate to maintain a physical barrier. This extra precaution keeps both cats secure while allowing them to become accustomed to each other’s presence.
Full Door Opening
The timing of this step will be determined by your cats and how they are progressing. There is no set time limit for each phase, when in doubt take your time as rushing will not help the situation.
When your cats tolerate visual contact without distress, it’s time to fully open the door. However, continue to monitor their interactions closely and gradually increase the time they spend together. Remember, patience is key to ensuring a successful and harmonious introduction.
Happy Environment
To create a harmonious environment for your cats as they spend more time together, focus on providing a secure and stimulating space. Incorporate cat trees, perches, and hiding spots at different heights, which not only increases their perceived territory but also helps cats feel safe and less susceptible to ambush. Vertical spaces can also serve as status displays, potentially averting physical conflicts. Enhance environmental enrichment with activities like food-dispensing toys, puzzle toys, and solo play options. Consider adding a bird feeder outside the window or cat shelves for climbing and play to divert their attention and reduce tension. Ensure multiple litter trays and scratching posts are available, placed in different areas to avoid confrontations when sharing resources.
Maintain the practice of mealtime training, allowing both cats to eat in each other’s presence. However, understand that they may never feel comfortable sharing the same food bowl. Using separate bowls not only fosters peaceful coexistence but also prepares them for possible special nutritional requirements in the future. Remember that patience is essential throughout this process, and it’s crucial to go at the pace that ensures the comfort and well-being of your cats.
INTRODUCTIONS TO AN EXISTING DOG
Introducing a new feline family member to an existing canine companion can be a delicate process. Dogs are inherently predatory by nature, and the initial meetings must be handled with care to ensure a harmonious coexistence. This six-step guide provides a structured approach to gradually acclimating your cat and dog to each other, fostering a positive and peaceful relationship between them.
Safe Place
Begin by preparing a calm and secure environment for both pets. Ensure your cat has a designated Safe Place, equipped with food, water, litter, and a comfy hiding spot. This separation sets the stage for successful introductions by allowing both animals to adjust to their new surroundings without direct interaction.
Initial Separation
Keep your cat in her Safe Place while allowing your dog to explore the rest of the house. This initial separation is crucial as it lets them become familiar with each other’s scent. Cats often view dogs as potential threats, so this step helps reduce initial tension.
Controlled Introduction
In this step, place your cat in a sturdy cat carrier, as a solid barrier provides a sense of security. Position the carrier in the middle of a room and bring your dog into the same room on a leash. Allow your dog, while under control, to sniff around the carrier. Observe his reaction closely—a dog showing overt aggression, such as snarling, growling, or baring teeth, may never fully accept a cat’s presence. If aggression occurs, contact us for further guidance, and maintain separate living spaces for the time being.
Leashed Meeting
Return the cat to their Safe Place, and some hours later or the next day, allow them to meet with the dog on a leash. This controlled approach ensures that the cat has the choice to approach or find an escape route. Given a dog’s predatory instincts, be prepared for the possibility that the dog may attempt to chase the cat. However, never allow intimidation or excessive barking during this phase.
Managing Behaviour
Both cats and dogs may exhibit inappropriate behaviours during their interactions. If the dog engages in such behaviours, such as barking at the cat, it’s essential to address and correct them. Use a quick, sharp tone like ‘Ah-ah’ to get the dog’s attention and redirect their energy. Conversely, if the cat bops the dog on the nose as a warning, recognise this as a positive sign of boundary-setting within their relationship.
Gradual Increases
Pursue on-leash interactions in small doses. Then, return the cat to their Safe Place and bring the dog to its crate or designated bed. Reward the dog with treats and praise for calm behaviour. Gradually increase the duration of their interactions during subsequent meetings. Be patient and encouraging throughout this process, praising friendly behaviour enthusiastically. Avoid rushing the introduction, as pressing them to accept each other will only slow down the adjustment process. When both the cat and dog seem more comfortable with each other, you can allow the dog off-leash, but keep a leash attached to their collar for control during initial supervised sessions.
Introducing your cat to an existing dog can be a rewarding experience when approached with care and patience. By following these steps, you can create a safe and comfortable environment for both pets and nurture a harmonious bond over time. Remember that every pet is unique, so adapt the process to their individual needs and pace for the best results.
TOXIC PLANTS
There are some plants that must be avoided for the safety of your cat.
A full list of plants can be found here.
Below are examples of other plants to look out for. This is NOT a full list – so please research before bringing any plants into your home.
PEACE LILY
LILY
ARUM LILY
Lillies
WARNING – All types of Lillies CANNOT be present in the house AT ALL.
The spores in the air can land on the floor and be licked off paws = FATAL. Lillies can cause death very quickly in cats and kittens when ingested – All parts of the plant are toxic including the leaves, flowers, and stamens.
These are just some Lily examples – but all lillies are toxic.
MONSTERA
SILVER MONSTERA
SWISS CHEESE MONSTERA
Monstera
Contains insoluble calcium oxalates – highly toxic to cats. Symptoms can include burning of lips and mouth, excessive drooling, oral swelling and vomiting. Other types of monstera include but not limited to the following.
MARBLE QUEEN
PHILODENDRON
SATIN LEAF POTHOS
Pothos and Philodendrons
Contains insoluble calcium oxalates – highly toxic to cats. Although these plants are safe to touch, if ingested, your kitty will experience burning of lips and mouth, vomiting and oral swelling. There are many types – please research before buying.
RUBBER PLANT
VARIEGATED RUBBER
BABY RUBBER
Rubber Plants
Contains toxic enzymes within the sap. The sap can be exposed when stems or thick rubbery leaves are cut/broke which irritates the skin and harms the digestive system if ingested. Other types include but not limited to the following.
SNAKE PLANT
MIXED SANSERVIA
MIXED SANSERVIA
Snake Plants/Sansevieria
Contains Saponins. Snake plants have been reported toxic for both cats and dogs causing nausea, vomiting and diarrhea If ingested.
English Ivy
Contains the toxic property – Triterpenoid Saponins. These small delicate leaves are an attractive snack to curious felines. If ingested English Ivy is extremely dangerous. Can cause a wide range of symptoms including, weakness, vomiting, throat swelling, excessive drooling, dermatitis, rash and ataxia.
ALOE VERA
YUKKA
DRACAENA
Other Plants
Aloe Vera – Contains saponins. The poisonous part of aloe is the white latex, not the gelatin held within the leaves. Saponins in aloe increases mucus and water in your cats colon, leading to abdominal cramping, vomiting, lethargy and diarrhea.
Yuccas and Dracaenas – Contains saponins. When ingested these plants can cause vomiting (occasionally with blood), depression, anorexia, hypersalivation and dilated pupils.
If you become unable to continue caring for your cat for whatever reason during their lifetime, please get in touch with us straightaway. As stated in the Adoption Agreement, the cat must come back to us for rehoming rather than be passed on to another party or taken to a pound or shelter. We will always love them and be there for them too!
Enjoy your new feline family member, and do please keep in touch with news and photos!
Thanks you for choosing rescue.
